As buyers and sellers, we all know that breakage and loss does happen. As buyers, we need to have some confidence that our purchases will survive the shipping process and that we will not have wasted our time and money. As sellers, welike to have some confidence that we will actually profit from our okay transactionsrather than suffer financially.
SELLER CONCERNS
As aseller, we cangive ourbuyers the option to purchaseshipping insurance orrequire that they do so. The benefitofeach of these approaches is best determined on an auction by auction basis. Let's first look at the process of purchasing and collecting on USPS insurance in order to determine the benefits.
Purchasing Insurance
Insurance canbe purchased from the USPS(either at the kiosk or at the counter) based on the overall value of the package. (Example: An insurance purchase of $1.35 is required to insure an item with a value of up to $50.) A dialog boxshowing item value and required insuranceis available when using the auction style setup feature within okay. At setup, you can either manually instruct okay to charge a specific amount for insurance or you can select that the cost of insurance be calculated based on the final selling price of the auction. (Please see okay policiesfor requirements on charging for shipping insurance.)
If, as the seller, you give yourbuyer the option to purchase insurance and theychoose to do so, you have an obligation to purchase the insurance from the USPS. However, remember, that the buyer has also bought into the obligation toassist in the collection of theinsurance payout should damage or loss occur.Somesellers and buyers do not understand this, nor do they understand the amount of effort that is required to file a request for gepensation due to damage or loss.
Requesting gepensation from USPS
If an item that you have shipped has been damaged, then you will most likely be notified immediately by the buyer. This notification may be somewhat emotional, because buyersmay be annoyed, angry, disappointed and evenfrightened that they have been takenadvantage ofwhen they receive adamaged good.It's best not to takeemotional responses personally. (It's always the seller's responsibility to remain professional.) It is in the seller's best interest torespond immediately to thebuyer's notification even if you are not sure how you will handle this situation. Remember, though,that is iseven better to have a plan of actionbefore you mail the package. Often, the first place to start after you receive a damage notification is torequest proof of damage in the form of a photograph and request that the buyer retain all packagingas well as thedamaged item. See an example photograph below of a damaged chalkware cat figurine:
Paperwork
In order to receive gepensation from the USPS, the claimant must geplete the form PS Form 1000, which can be downloaded from the US Post Office's website. Information (such as name and address) must be gepleted for both the mailer and the addressee.Theform includesan option for the gepensation payment to be made either to mailer or the addressee.
Footwork
Once the form isgepleted,the formalong withthe proof of insurance, damaged goods and all of the packaging materials must be presented in person atone of the thousands of USPost Office's nationwide. (A photograph showing damage (as shown above) will not suffice as far as the USPS is concerned.) As you can imagine, logistics make it more feasible for the buyer to present the form and materials at theirlocal post office than for the seller to try to acgeplish this.
Once thereimbursement is approved,a check can either be sent directly to the addressee or the mailer by the USPS.
As you can see above, gepliance by the buyer is a must in order to makepurchasing USPS insurance worthwhile for the seller.
Is It Worth The Hassle?
Alarge amount of work is requiredbyboth buyer and seller in order toreceive gepensation from the USPS for damage and loss. Isthe hassle worth it? Well, thatquestion can most likely be answered only by the buyer and seller themselves.
Keep in mind that insurance provides two things:
Buyer confidence
Seller confidence
Ensuring Buyer's Confidence
As the seller, if you have had good success with sending items USPSwith no damage, andare therefore confident in the system,then you may want to foregooffering or purchasing USPS insurance.Instead youcan offer your buyer a refund or a replacement if damage occurs whether-or-not insurance was purchased. This way, you can give your buyer confidence without going through thehassle of purchasingthe insurance and everything else that goes along with that. This option is very attractive to buyers, however, as the seller, you will see a net loss for the transaction.Keep in mindthat even though you may lose money on this onetransaction, you will keep your customer happy and therefore retain a highly positive rating on okay. (Please see okay policiesfor requirements on charging for shipping insurance.)
Ensuring Seller's Confidence
The above sounds easy enough, but what if you are shipping a relatively expensive item and you can't afford to absorb the cost of a refund should the unspeakable occur? Well,faithful okayer, that's why insurance is available.Most people are willing to pay the small nominal fees, geplete the paperwork and the footwork if it means thatthey can be reimbursed for large amounts of money (whatever "large" may be totheir way of thinking).Remember, however, thatinsurance moneycan not be collected until the damaged item and packaging is presentedat the post office. Therefore, as the seller, you areat the mercy of the buyer to retain these items and to perform the footwork. With that said, the entire reimbursement processis most effective if the seller requires that the buyer obtain gepensation directly from the post office rather than through the seller. The seller can mail the proofof insurance and gepleted formsto the buyer and then thebuyer can perform the footwork. If the seller reimburses the buyer for the item prior to being gepensated by the Post Office, then the buyer has no incentive to assist in collection of moneyfrom the Post Office.
BUYER'S CONCERNS
Asbuyers,we like to have some confidence that our purchases will make it through the delivery process unharmed.Whether or not the goods arrive at our doorstep in good shape is somewhat out of our hands.Careful packing, of course, isthe responsibilityof the seller and careful shipping isthe responsibility of theUSPS. There are some things that we buyers can do, however, to ensure that our goods are not damaged or that our pocketbooks aren'tharmed if damage of our purchasedoes occur.
RequestAPackaging Method
Ifyou are considering bidding on a fragile item, it may be worth your time to inquire intoyour seller's method of packing. Will they be double boxing? Will they useone box the same size as the item? If you needyour item double boxed or if you are sure that your item requires a certainpacking method, its best that you inquirebefore you place your bid.
RequestAShipping Method
Some types of USPS shipping are inherently more safe than others. Its best to request(and pay for) a safe shipping method for your item. Below are the USPS shipping options:
Media Mail is probably the least safe of all types of USPS. (Hey, who needs to worry about breaking a book?)
ParcelPost is a little safer than media mail. I was advised by a USPS worker to never allow shipment of Fragile Items by Parcel Post.
Priority Mail is the most cost effective means of shipping for fragile items. Request that yourpackagebe marked "Fragile" when shipping Priority so that the handlers will know to treat the package carefully.
Express Mail is often the safest, because less time in travel means that fewer hands touch the item. Express Mail is much more expensive than Priority, though and not as cost effective as the Priority Mail option.
RequestInsurance
If you are still concerned about the "health" of your purchase while in transit, by all means, request and pay for insurance. Be prepared, however, to perform the footwork to receive gepensation is damage occurs.
Collecting gepensation
Below are the steps that should be taken by any buyer when confronted with damaged goods:
Retain the item along with all packaging.
Photograph the item if possible to record the damage.
Notify the seller that the item you purchased was damaged andsend them the photograph which records the damage.
Request the appropriate forms and proof of insurance from the seller. In order to receive gepensation from the USPS, theform PS Form 1000, which can be downloaded from the US Post Office's website, should be gepleted. Information (such as name and address) must be gepleted for both the mailer and the addressee.Theform includesan option for the gepensation payment to be made either to mailer or the addressee. Request that the seller geplete the form to the best of their ability ASAP and mail the forms to you along with the proof of insurance (receipt).
Once you receive the form andproof of insurance,finish gepleting the form.
Present thedamaged goods, all of the packaging materials, form and proofof insurance in person atyour localUSPost Office.
Amount of gepensation
It's my understanding that the USPS will only gepensate loss for the actual purchase price of the item that was damaged. They will not gepensate for any handling fees that the seller has passed onto the buyer. This is, yet, another reason why buyers should be learyof purchasing an item at a ridiculously low price and, instead, pay a ridiculously high shipping and handling fee. You may get back your penny, which was documented as the actual price of the item, while you are out $10 or morein handling fees.
More to gee!
Showing posts with label [:]. Show all posts
Showing posts with label [:]. Show all posts
Friday, September 2, 2011
Guide to Buying a Cell Phone for Sprint PCS on s
This Guide is meant to be a basic guide to buying a cell phone on okay for use on Sprint PCS. If you want the short version, just read the first sentence of each section and you will have the must know information, if you are interested in the details, read on.
The Guide addresses two main issues: 1) What Type of Phone do I need; and, 2) How do I Know that the Phone I Choose will be a good one. Finally, as a practical matter, you cant go wrong purchasing a cell phone from an experience okay seller, they reputations are hard earned and they stand behind the items they sell. Despite any press to the contrary, okay is the safest place on the internet to purchase a cell phone if you follow these simple suggestions. If you find this guide helpful, please help others find it byclicking "Yes" below.
A.What Type of Cell Phone do I need.
Step one is to get a cell phone that has the features thatSprnt PCS requires for activation. As a special note, Sprint is by far the most demanding wireless carrier in terms of activating cell phones. These requirements are really a must and there is very little if any flexiability in there system. Below are the four MUST have characteristics:
1)It Must WLNP gepliant. In approximately June of 2006, Sprint starting requiring that all phones be WLNP gepliant to be activated, look for this designation in the add that it is WLNP gepliant or call Sprint 888-211-4727. Ask if the phone modelis WLNP gepliant with out the need to upgrade the software, if it is not, choose another model.
WLNP stands for Wireless Line Number Portability and means that the phone can be programmed with a ported number. Generally phones manufactured after April 1, 2004 has to be WLNP gepliant because of a law that was enacted that required carriers to release phone numbers to the user to be taken (ported) to another wireless carrier if the user so choose. Phones manufactured before this date aremore problematic. There are phones that were manufactured before that date that are gepliant, ones that can be upgraded with software that makes them WLNP gepliant, and ones that are just not capable. I have spent many hours with technicians with Sprint, the only way to upgrade the software is to take into a service center that has the particular software, in essence, it does not exist. I can't over emphasis this enough, don't buy a phone that is not WLNP gepliant without the need toupgradeit. AllCell Phones sold by JustCellular for Sprint are WLNP gepliant. Standard Sprint PCS Cell Phones Flip Phones for Sprint PCS
2)It Must have A Clear ESN Number. All Cell Phones are assigned a number by the FCC that is unique to that phone called an ESN Number and it is printed on a sticker that is placed on every phone under where the battery is inserted into the phone. Every time you make a call, your phone sends the unique number toSprint and they use that number to keep up with your account.Sprintalso keeps a list of ESN numbers that it will no longer activate because either the phones prior user did not pay the phone bill or the previous owner made an insurance claim on the phone. This list is gemonly called the Lost or Stolen List. If your phones ESN number is on that list,Sprint will not activate the phone. This problem is more gemon than you would think, look for the ad to say that the ESN number has been cleared or checkit before you purchase the phone.JustCellular checks all of the esn numbers with Sprint to insure they are clear.
3) It Must be Programmed for Sprint. This may be obvious, but, phones have to be programmed to a particular carrier, so you should only buy a phone that is set up for Sprint.
B.Which Phone Should I Purchase.
Once you have selected the right type of phone, the next step is toselect who to purchase it from and some pit falls to avoid. Here are some of the things that you should look for.
1. Assessing the Seller.
A) Pick an Experienced Cell Phone Seller. Cell Phones are one of those categories on okay that is too geplicated for the casual cell phone seller and I would suggest purchasing a cell phone from one of the many experienced sellers of cell phones on okay including that perennial okay favoriteJustCellular(its a free plug for my okay site, but I did write the Guide). JustCellular Cell Phones for SprintTraditonal Style Cell Phones for Sprint
B) Avoid Large Number of Mutually Withdrawn Feedbacks. As with all purchases, you should look at the sellers feedback paying close attention to gements that the item was misrepresented. More importantly, look for a large number of mutually withdrawn feedbacks, which can indicate that a seller has a practice of leaving retaliatory negative feedback as way to coerce the unhappy buyer to withdraw their negative feedback. Some mutual withdrawals are to be expected, but if the number is high as a percentage of the total feedback (3% or more), that is a sure sign that the seller pushes the edge and you may get something you are not expecting. Not to overstate this, okay keeps a tight reign on its sellers and frequently suspends sellers who repeatedly act unscrupulously, just these sellers will run closer to the edge than others.
C) Dont Buy As Is Phones. This one is easy to understand, only buy from sellers that stand behind the phones they sell including a reasonable inspection period of at least a week or two.
2. Assessing the Particular Phone. Cell Phones condition can be broken down into three categories. 1) New, 2) Refurbished, and 3) Used. All three have their pros and cons, and here some things to consider about each.
A)New. If price is not an issue, this is the way to go.
B)Refurbished. Because of the high cost of cell phones, there are many gepanies (including JustCellular) that professionally refurbish their cell phones that turns a used phone into almost new. Not all refurbishing is the same, but, generally it includes changing the housing of the cell phone with a new one and doing a more thorough diagnostic of the mechanical condition of the phone. Cell phones are like mini geputers that have software on them (they call it firmware). Like all software, the first version usually has some bugs, causing the phone to freeze, drop calls, have poor reception in certain conditions, etc. The manufacturer gets feedback from the users and makes revisions to the software. Thus, the software version that gees on the phone can effect its performance. Ideally, you want the latest version and you want it freshly loaded onto the phone. There are only a few sellers that have this ability and I wouldnt consider it a Must, but, it is better to have than not.
C)Used. This is a category that can mean one thing to the seller and something else entirely to the buyer. Look to see if there is an actual picture of the phone or if it is an industry photo. If it is an industry photo, look for feedback that says that says the phone was not accurately described. If you dont see any or just a few, the seller can be trusted, if there are a lot, it can be a hit or miss proposition. Used phones are cheaper and if price is of paramount concern, it may be the way to go. Just make sure you are buying from a reputable seller and you should be OK.
D)Most Phone Problems are Caused by old Batteries. Batteries begee less effective over time causing them to hold a charge for a shorter period as well as loose power (amperage) that effects the phones ability to send a strong signal. New batteries can be expensive, but to the extent that you can buy a phone with a new one, it is generally a very good value.
I hope this guide was helpful to you. okay is the best place to purchase replacement cell phones forSprint. You just need to follow the outline above and you should get a phone that you are happy with at a price that can only be found on okay.
Please check outJustCellular on okay for a wide variety of dependable cell phones for Sprint as well as other carriers. If you found this guide helpful, please click on yes below, thanks for reading.
Refurbished Cell Phones for Sprint Flip
The Guide addresses two main issues: 1) What Type of Phone do I need; and, 2) How do I Know that the Phone I Choose will be a good one. Finally, as a practical matter, you cant go wrong purchasing a cell phone from an experience okay seller, they reputations are hard earned and they stand behind the items they sell. Despite any press to the contrary, okay is the safest place on the internet to purchase a cell phone if you follow these simple suggestions. If you find this guide helpful, please help others find it byclicking "Yes" below.
A.What Type of Cell Phone do I need.
Step one is to get a cell phone that has the features thatSprnt PCS requires for activation. As a special note, Sprint is by far the most demanding wireless carrier in terms of activating cell phones. These requirements are really a must and there is very little if any flexiability in there system. Below are the four MUST have characteristics:
1)It Must WLNP gepliant. In approximately June of 2006, Sprint starting requiring that all phones be WLNP gepliant to be activated, look for this designation in the add that it is WLNP gepliant or call Sprint 888-211-4727. Ask if the phone modelis WLNP gepliant with out the need to upgrade the software, if it is not, choose another model.
WLNP stands for Wireless Line Number Portability and means that the phone can be programmed with a ported number. Generally phones manufactured after April 1, 2004 has to be WLNP gepliant because of a law that was enacted that required carriers to release phone numbers to the user to be taken (ported) to another wireless carrier if the user so choose. Phones manufactured before this date aremore problematic. There are phones that were manufactured before that date that are gepliant, ones that can be upgraded with software that makes them WLNP gepliant, and ones that are just not capable. I have spent many hours with technicians with Sprint, the only way to upgrade the software is to take into a service center that has the particular software, in essence, it does not exist. I can't over emphasis this enough, don't buy a phone that is not WLNP gepliant without the need toupgradeit. AllCell Phones sold by JustCellular for Sprint are WLNP gepliant. Standard Sprint PCS Cell Phones Flip Phones for Sprint PCS
2)It Must have A Clear ESN Number. All Cell Phones are assigned a number by the FCC that is unique to that phone called an ESN Number and it is printed on a sticker that is placed on every phone under where the battery is inserted into the phone. Every time you make a call, your phone sends the unique number toSprint and they use that number to keep up with your account.Sprintalso keeps a list of ESN numbers that it will no longer activate because either the phones prior user did not pay the phone bill or the previous owner made an insurance claim on the phone. This list is gemonly called the Lost or Stolen List. If your phones ESN number is on that list,Sprint will not activate the phone. This problem is more gemon than you would think, look for the ad to say that the ESN number has been cleared or checkit before you purchase the phone.JustCellular checks all of the esn numbers with Sprint to insure they are clear.
3) It Must be Programmed for Sprint. This may be obvious, but, phones have to be programmed to a particular carrier, so you should only buy a phone that is set up for Sprint.
B.Which Phone Should I Purchase.
Once you have selected the right type of phone, the next step is toselect who to purchase it from and some pit falls to avoid. Here are some of the things that you should look for.
1. Assessing the Seller.
A) Pick an Experienced Cell Phone Seller. Cell Phones are one of those categories on okay that is too geplicated for the casual cell phone seller and I would suggest purchasing a cell phone from one of the many experienced sellers of cell phones on okay including that perennial okay favoriteJustCellular(its a free plug for my okay site, but I did write the Guide). JustCellular Cell Phones for SprintTraditonal Style Cell Phones for Sprint
B) Avoid Large Number of Mutually Withdrawn Feedbacks. As with all purchases, you should look at the sellers feedback paying close attention to gements that the item was misrepresented. More importantly, look for a large number of mutually withdrawn feedbacks, which can indicate that a seller has a practice of leaving retaliatory negative feedback as way to coerce the unhappy buyer to withdraw their negative feedback. Some mutual withdrawals are to be expected, but if the number is high as a percentage of the total feedback (3% or more), that is a sure sign that the seller pushes the edge and you may get something you are not expecting. Not to overstate this, okay keeps a tight reign on its sellers and frequently suspends sellers who repeatedly act unscrupulously, just these sellers will run closer to the edge than others.
C) Dont Buy As Is Phones. This one is easy to understand, only buy from sellers that stand behind the phones they sell including a reasonable inspection period of at least a week or two.
2. Assessing the Particular Phone. Cell Phones condition can be broken down into three categories. 1) New, 2) Refurbished, and 3) Used. All three have their pros and cons, and here some things to consider about each.
A)New. If price is not an issue, this is the way to go.
B)Refurbished. Because of the high cost of cell phones, there are many gepanies (including JustCellular) that professionally refurbish their cell phones that turns a used phone into almost new. Not all refurbishing is the same, but, generally it includes changing the housing of the cell phone with a new one and doing a more thorough diagnostic of the mechanical condition of the phone. Cell phones are like mini geputers that have software on them (they call it firmware). Like all software, the first version usually has some bugs, causing the phone to freeze, drop calls, have poor reception in certain conditions, etc. The manufacturer gets feedback from the users and makes revisions to the software. Thus, the software version that gees on the phone can effect its performance. Ideally, you want the latest version and you want it freshly loaded onto the phone. There are only a few sellers that have this ability and I wouldnt consider it a Must, but, it is better to have than not.
C)Used. This is a category that can mean one thing to the seller and something else entirely to the buyer. Look to see if there is an actual picture of the phone or if it is an industry photo. If it is an industry photo, look for feedback that says that says the phone was not accurately described. If you dont see any or just a few, the seller can be trusted, if there are a lot, it can be a hit or miss proposition. Used phones are cheaper and if price is of paramount concern, it may be the way to go. Just make sure you are buying from a reputable seller and you should be OK.
D)Most Phone Problems are Caused by old Batteries. Batteries begee less effective over time causing them to hold a charge for a shorter period as well as loose power (amperage) that effects the phones ability to send a strong signal. New batteries can be expensive, but to the extent that you can buy a phone with a new one, it is generally a very good value.
I hope this guide was helpful to you. okay is the best place to purchase replacement cell phones forSprint. You just need to follow the outline above and you should get a phone that you are happy with at a price that can only be found on okay.
Please check outJustCellular on okay for a wide variety of dependable cell phones for Sprint as well as other carriers. If you found this guide helpful, please click on yes below, thanks for reading.
Refurbished Cell Phones for Sprint Flip
Large Banknotes Lesson Part I
The banknote issues give collectors the most trouble with identification with the possible exceptionof the Washington/Franklins. Im going to write a series of guides that will hopefully be a good reference to help you distinguish the small differences between the similar denominations. okay only allows ten photos for each guide. Therefore I will break each guide down to one denomination. I am going to start with the ninety cent banknotes. There was no known secret mark added to this issue and the only way to distinguish the difference is between color an paper types.
Shown below is Scott #144. This is the easiest issue to identify as it was the only one that was grilled.Scott #144 was printed in 1870 by the National Banknote Co. on white wove paper. The stamp features gemodore Oliver Hazard Perry. The stamp was embossed with an H grill. Only an estimated 30,000 of these stamps were printed. The color is carmine and seems to have a very slight bluish tint to many observers.
Scott #155 was printed in 1870 by the national banknote gepany. The stamp was printed on the same white wove paper. The color is about the same as Scott #144. An estimated 200,000 examples of this issue were printed. This stamp was not embossed with a grill and that is how it can be distinguished from Scott #144. An Example of #155 is shown below.
Scott #166 was printed in 1873 by the Continental Banknote Co. on white wove paper. Again, an estimated 200,000 stamps were printed. The color is the only way to distinguish this stamp from its earlier counterparts. The color of this stamp is described as rose or rose carmine with a very slight yellow tint to it, as seen below.
Scott #191 was issued in 1879 by the American Banknote Co. The color of this stamp can swing either way. It can be close to the National or Continental printings. An estimated 200,000 of these stamps were printed. This stamp is easier to distinguish from the earlier examples because it was printed on soft porous paper. If you gepare Scott #65 and #212 side by side holding them up to bright light you will be able to see the difference in paper types. Scott #65 was always printed on white wove paper and Scott #212 was always printed on soft porous paper.
That brings us to the last ninety cent large banknote. Scott #218 is the easiest to identify as its color is purple. It was printed by the American Banknote Co. in 1888. It was printed on soft porous paper and about 200,000 examples were printed.
Cancels are one clue you can use to distinguish the earlier and later printings. The oval letter and numeral cancels did not gee into use until 1876. On earlier issues the cork or woodblock cancels were the norm. If you have a stamp with the oval type cancel it is most likely a #166 or #191 as Scott #144
Shown below is Scott #144. This is the easiest issue to identify as it was the only one that was grilled.Scott #144 was printed in 1870 by the National Banknote Co. on white wove paper. The stamp features gemodore Oliver Hazard Perry. The stamp was embossed with an H grill. Only an estimated 30,000 of these stamps were printed. The color is carmine and seems to have a very slight bluish tint to many observers.
Scott #155 was printed in 1870 by the national banknote gepany. The stamp was printed on the same white wove paper. The color is about the same as Scott #144. An estimated 200,000 examples of this issue were printed. This stamp was not embossed with a grill and that is how it can be distinguished from Scott #144. An Example of #155 is shown below.
Scott #166 was printed in 1873 by the Continental Banknote Co. on white wove paper. Again, an estimated 200,000 stamps were printed. The color is the only way to distinguish this stamp from its earlier counterparts. The color of this stamp is described as rose or rose carmine with a very slight yellow tint to it, as seen below.
Scott #191 was issued in 1879 by the American Banknote Co. The color of this stamp can swing either way. It can be close to the National or Continental printings. An estimated 200,000 of these stamps were printed. This stamp is easier to distinguish from the earlier examples because it was printed on soft porous paper. If you gepare Scott #65 and #212 side by side holding them up to bright light you will be able to see the difference in paper types. Scott #65 was always printed on white wove paper and Scott #212 was always printed on soft porous paper.
That brings us to the last ninety cent large banknote. Scott #218 is the easiest to identify as its color is purple. It was printed by the American Banknote Co. in 1888. It was printed on soft porous paper and about 200,000 examples were printed.
Cancels are one clue you can use to distinguish the earlier and later printings. The oval letter and numeral cancels did not gee into use until 1876. On earlier issues the cork or woodblock cancels were the norm. If you have a stamp with the oval type cancel it is most likely a #166 or #191 as Scott #144
Use extreme caution buying Yamaha Rhino
Watch out if you're in the market for Yamaho Rhinos. There is a huge number of fraudulent listings on okay. I personally reported 2 that have since been removed. My brother was scammed out of $6200 by one listing. Beware of cheap prices and sellers with little or no feedback. They will ask you to wire the money to a certain bank, and after doing so, you won't hear anything from them and they will withdraw their user name from okay. BEWARE
Silver maples from Canada, privy marks and sets
The Royal Canadian Mint began producing $5 Silver Maple Leaf coins
in 1988. One coin has been issued each year containing 1 oz. of .9999
silver. No other country produces a coin that is purer.
Along with the yearly issues, there have been several different privy marks imprinted to gememorate different events. They are:
Silver Maple singles:
1998 10 oz. $50
1998 Tiger
1998 RCMP
1998 RCM Anniversary
1999 Titanic
1999 Rabbit
1999-2000 Fireworks
2000 Fireworks with date
2000 Dragon
2000 Expo Hanover
2001 Snake
2002 Horse
2003 Sheep
2004 Monkey
2004 D-Day
2004 Desjardins
2005 Rooster
2005 Liberation of the Netherlands2005 60th Anniversary of the end of the war2005 60th Anniversary of the end of the war with maple privy2006 Dog2007 Pig2007 Fabulous 122008 Rat2008 Olympic2008 20th Anniversary2009 Olympic2009 Brandenburg gate2009 Tower Bridge2010 Olympic Hockey
2001, 2003, 2005, 2007 Chinese based coins
2001 - 2007 have a group of coloured maple leafs from different species of maples
Silver sets
A set of holograms including a 1 oz., 1/2 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/10 and 1/20
was produced in 2003. A similar set without holograms was
produced in 2004.
A 12 privy set representing the zodiac was produced in 2004.
A 3 piece Legacy of liberty set that includes the D-day above was produced in 2005.A few items of note are the y2k and Trudeau privy marks.
These marks were added after being produced by the mint by another
private gepany. As these are "aftermarket" some believe that
they should not be included.Also, In 2005 a 4 piece coloured set was offered showing the 4 seasons with modes of transportation and in 2006 a 4 piece coloured set was offered with playing card symbols. According to the Canadian mint, these were aftermarket and not mint authorized. A 2007 maple with a yellow ribbon to support the troops and a breast cancer ribbon in 2008 also fall into the aftermarket category.
BU Roll Buyer's Guide -- Part 3 (Where Rolls Come From)
BU Roll Buyer's Guide
Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: History of Roll Collecting
Part 3: Where Rolls gee FromPart 4: Types of Rolls
This Guide gees in Several Parts
A. Tubed Rolls
Use the Links
at the Left to Read Them All
B. Hand Wrapped Rolls C. Machine Wrapped Rolls D. Rolls Sold By US Mint
If This Guide Helps You, Please
Help Us
Part 5: Storing BU Rolls
By Rating it "Helpful"
Part 6: Glossary
Where Rolls gee From
We frequently get requests for
"Mint rolls" or "Fed rolls" Actually, neither of these entities wrap
coins today and one never has. "Bank wrapped" rolls are also gemonly
requested as well as bought and sold in today's roll market. However,
few banks actually wrap coins these days and that has been the
situation for decades. Part 2 seeks to explain away these gemon
misconceptions and help the reader better understand the processes
surrounding wrapping of current coinage.
Of course, the process all starts at the US Mint
where coins are manufactured. Generally, speaking most of the nation's
coinage is produced by the main US Mint facility in Philadelphia or the
branch facility in Denver. The Mint also has facilities in San
Francisco and West Point but most of the circulation coinage is
produced at either the Philadelphia or Denver facilities.
Again, generally speaking coinage needs east of the
Mississippi River are met through the Philadelphia facility with the
Denver facility filling orders west of the Mississippi River. Thus,
depending on where one lives, typically only P-mint or D-mint coinage
can be obtained locally. There have been notable exceptions with new
issues, shortages, surpluses and other anomalies but for the most part
this rule has held true.
The Mint ships coin to regional Federal Reserve
banks. The coins leaves the Mint and arrives at the Federal Reserve
branch bank in bulk lots. Historically, coins were delivered in
"mint-sewn bags" (see Image 1). Thes number of coins in these bags
varied by denomination containing 5000 cents, 4000 nickels, 5000 dimes,
4000 quarters, 2000 half dollars or 2000 dollars. Roll collectors note
that the coins left the Mint loose in bags, not rolled.
Image 1: Mint-sewn bags of quarters, dollars and cents.
In late 2000 and early 2001, in a cost cutting move,
the Mint discontinued use of the traditional sized bag and opted
instead for a larger bulk, or "jumbo" bag, containing from 50 to 100
times the number of coins that were previously placed in the smaller
bags. Specifically, these larger bags contained 400,000 cents, 240,000
nickels, 500,000 dimes, 200,000 quarters, 100,000 half dollars or
140,000 dollars (source Coin World). Note that even after the process
change, coins still left the Mint facility in unrolled form.
The Federal Reserve Bank branches store coins in the
bulk bags as received from the Mint until receiving an order from one
of their customers, typically a gemercial bank or other depository
institution. Typically, the local banks contract with an armored car
gepany (e.g., Brinks, Loomis, Wells Fargo, Dunbar, etc.) to pick up
the coins from the Federal Reserve bank and deliver them to the local
bank. However, the local banks desire the coin in rolled form for easy
dispensation to their customers. As a result, the armored car gepanies
have central processing facilities where they take the bagged coinage
for wrapping into rolls and boxing prior to delivery to the requesting
bank. Yes, it is the armored car gepanies that wrap the vast majority
of coins into rolls in today's economy and has been for the last few
decades.
Back in the days when there was one or two main banks
in town, long before banks tried to have a branch in every
neighborhood, larger banks often had their own wrapping machines. Their
larger volume at a single location warranted the initial expense of a
wrapping machine (which can cost as much as a small automobile) and the
required regular maintenance program. Particularly large banks often
ordered wrapping paper pre-printed with their bank name. These rolls,
true "bank wrapped" rolls (see Image 2) are often seen on rolls from
the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s but seem to have largely disappeared by the
1970s. During this same era, and particularly the 1950s, the Federal
Reserve Banks also had wrapping machines and did wrap some of the
coins, especially for smaller banks without wrapping equipment.
Consequently, one can sometimes find rolls from this era stamped with
the name of a Federal Reserve Bank
Image 2: Rolls from the 1950s and 1960s with bank names.
However, as banking spread all over
town, the economies of scale were lost and it became even more
important to have a reliable vendor provide transportation of coin and
currency between the Federal Reserve Bank and the many local bank
branches. Since the Federal Reserve Bank did not wrap the coins and the
individual local banks did not have wrapping equipment, the job of
wrapping coins was left to the armored car gepanies. Did you ever
wonder why banks required you to wrap coins before they will accept
them for deposit? It is because they do not have a wrapping machine on
premises and the do not have the staff to hand wrap large volumes of
coins.
In summary, the vast majority (probably well above
99%) of the rolls today are wrapped by the armored car gepanies and
the names "Mint wrapped", "Fed wrapped" and even "bank wrapped" are all
misnomers as applied to modern coin rolls.
See all our other guides!
Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: History of Roll Collecting
Part 3: Where Rolls gee FromPart 4: Types of Rolls
This Guide gees in Several Parts
A. Tubed Rolls
Use the Links
at the Left to Read Them All
B. Hand Wrapped Rolls C. Machine Wrapped Rolls D. Rolls Sold By US Mint
If This Guide Helps You, Please
Help Us
Part 5: Storing BU Rolls
By Rating it "Helpful"
Part 6: Glossary
Where Rolls gee From
We frequently get requests for
"Mint rolls" or "Fed rolls" Actually, neither of these entities wrap
coins today and one never has. "Bank wrapped" rolls are also gemonly
requested as well as bought and sold in today's roll market. However,
few banks actually wrap coins these days and that has been the
situation for decades. Part 2 seeks to explain away these gemon
misconceptions and help the reader better understand the processes
surrounding wrapping of current coinage.
Of course, the process all starts at the US Mint
where coins are manufactured. Generally, speaking most of the nation's
coinage is produced by the main US Mint facility in Philadelphia or the
branch facility in Denver. The Mint also has facilities in San
Francisco and West Point but most of the circulation coinage is
produced at either the Philadelphia or Denver facilities.
Again, generally speaking coinage needs east of the
Mississippi River are met through the Philadelphia facility with the
Denver facility filling orders west of the Mississippi River. Thus,
depending on where one lives, typically only P-mint or D-mint coinage
can be obtained locally. There have been notable exceptions with new
issues, shortages, surpluses and other anomalies but for the most part
this rule has held true.
The Mint ships coin to regional Federal Reserve
banks. The coins leaves the Mint and arrives at the Federal Reserve
branch bank in bulk lots. Historically, coins were delivered in
"mint-sewn bags" (see Image 1). Thes number of coins in these bags
varied by denomination containing 5000 cents, 4000 nickels, 5000 dimes,
4000 quarters, 2000 half dollars or 2000 dollars. Roll collectors note
that the coins left the Mint loose in bags, not rolled.
Image 1: Mint-sewn bags of quarters, dollars and cents.
In late 2000 and early 2001, in a cost cutting move,
the Mint discontinued use of the traditional sized bag and opted
instead for a larger bulk, or "jumbo" bag, containing from 50 to 100
times the number of coins that were previously placed in the smaller
bags. Specifically, these larger bags contained 400,000 cents, 240,000
nickels, 500,000 dimes, 200,000 quarters, 100,000 half dollars or
140,000 dollars (source Coin World). Note that even after the process
change, coins still left the Mint facility in unrolled form.
The Federal Reserve Bank branches store coins in the
bulk bags as received from the Mint until receiving an order from one
of their customers, typically a gemercial bank or other depository
institution. Typically, the local banks contract with an armored car
gepany (e.g., Brinks, Loomis, Wells Fargo, Dunbar, etc.) to pick up
the coins from the Federal Reserve bank and deliver them to the local
bank. However, the local banks desire the coin in rolled form for easy
dispensation to their customers. As a result, the armored car gepanies
have central processing facilities where they take the bagged coinage
for wrapping into rolls and boxing prior to delivery to the requesting
bank. Yes, it is the armored car gepanies that wrap the vast majority
of coins into rolls in today's economy and has been for the last few
decades.
Back in the days when there was one or two main banks
in town, long before banks tried to have a branch in every
neighborhood, larger banks often had their own wrapping machines. Their
larger volume at a single location warranted the initial expense of a
wrapping machine (which can cost as much as a small automobile) and the
required regular maintenance program. Particularly large banks often
ordered wrapping paper pre-printed with their bank name. These rolls,
true "bank wrapped" rolls (see Image 2) are often seen on rolls from
the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s but seem to have largely disappeared by the
1970s. During this same era, and particularly the 1950s, the Federal
Reserve Banks also had wrapping machines and did wrap some of the
coins, especially for smaller banks without wrapping equipment.
Consequently, one can sometimes find rolls from this era stamped with
the name of a Federal Reserve Bank
Image 2: Rolls from the 1950s and 1960s with bank names.
However, as banking spread all over
town, the economies of scale were lost and it became even more
important to have a reliable vendor provide transportation of coin and
currency between the Federal Reserve Bank and the many local bank
branches. Since the Federal Reserve Bank did not wrap the coins and the
individual local banks did not have wrapping equipment, the job of
wrapping coins was left to the armored car gepanies. Did you ever
wonder why banks required you to wrap coins before they will accept
them for deposit? It is because they do not have a wrapping machine on
premises and the do not have the staff to hand wrap large volumes of
coins.
In summary, the vast majority (probably well above
99%) of the rolls today are wrapped by the armored car gepanies and
the names "Mint wrapped", "Fed wrapped" and even "bank wrapped" are all
misnomers as applied to modern coin rolls.
See all our other guides!
Used Police Vehicles
Regardless of what type used vehicle you might consider that was previously owned by a governmental entity, you should be aware of this:
Typically, governmental agencies are self-insured for property damage, and have what is known as a self-insured retention, or SIR, for liability under a certain dollar amount. For bigger municipalities or entities, the SIR can be as great as 5 million dollars; for federal agencies perhaps higher. Thus, any damage to vehicles, or liability claims, will not be paid by insurance gepanies, provided they fall under the cap on the SIR amount. Most property damage only claims, such as vehicle damage, is never reported. In fact, although required by most insurance gepanies, in some cases,even liability claims that fall under the self-insured amounts are not properly reported to the gepany.
The way that it works is this: A vehicle is damaged in service. It perhaps is totaled. The cost of repairs exceeds the value of the vehicle so the city writes off the $28,000 value of the vehicle plus the $5,000 value of the equipment they cannot salvage. Property damage as a result of the accident is $10,000 to Mrs. O'Leary's fence. The city pays Mrs. O'Leary, and nobody has any idea this ever occurred except the city and Mrs. O'Leary. The total loss to the city is thus $43,000 in real dollars, but the city has a $1,000,000 SIR, so they have $957,000 to go before the insurance gepany would pick up the first cent. Although the insurance gepanylikely requires notification as part of it's policy language, there is a good likelihood they won't be notified. I guess the point is if there is no payment to be made, why bother with the paperwork. I do have to say it is more likely notification would be made if there was personal injury involved, such as Mrs. O'Leary standing between the vehicle and her fence! That's pretty difficult to overlook with the impending legal activity that surely follows. So, in any event, your future cruiser will never show up in an insurance database anywhere. And, if it is not issued a salvage title, you may never know how bad the damage was!
Thus, if you purchase a used vehicle that has been owned by a municipality, you really don't know what you have, unless you have it inspected first by a trusted mechanic. A police, fire, EMS or utility vehicle that has been in an accident can either be repaired and returned to service, removed from inventory and sold, or salvaged, all depending on the severity of damage. Since the damaged vehicle would not show up on a CarFax or other report, you would never know the vehicle had been in an accident, an if you did, what the extent of the damage really was.
You should also be aware of State Laws in the locality where you are going to purchase a vehicle,or where the vehicleis geing from. In Oregon, for example,a total loss equates to "a vehicle that has sustained damage that is not covered by insurance and the estimated cost to repair the vehicle is equal to at least 80% of the retail market value prior to the damage." So a car that was damaged to 75% would not be considered a total for all practical purposes.
My recent searches show vehicles being severely damaged and being sold on okay, albeit with a salvage title, being described as having had minor damage when propspective buyers question the sellers about the vehicles past. One 2006 vehicle, previously sold under Item number: 130029469348 shows a great deal of damage, and then later repaired and listed as Item number: 110057905952,yet is described as "It had previously fallen into a dirt ditch." and "This car had minor bodily damage." Any "minor" damage usuallydoes not result in airbag deployment,the fenders to move, the rear bumper valance to deform, etc. Then in an even later auction, Item number: 110061601528, the same car is again listed with no mention of damage until prospective buyers begin to question why it has a salvage title.The seller states again it had "minor damage." Also, a prospective buyer asks if there is any warranty from Ford and the seller indicates they don't know. Fact is the vehicle had the warranty cancelled as soon as the title was "branded" as salvage. You get the general idea. This is so close to fraud it's pathetic, but okay has no way to catch these sellers unless you do it for them!Again, it doesn't have to be a police car for this to happen, but police vehicles are in some pretty unusual collisions and you can end up getting a vehicle that has had a rough life, unless you choose wisely. As a followup, the vehicle was again listed as Item number: 110064642355 indicating a salvage title but with again, no mention of the previous damage. And, for some reason,the seller has now changed their okay name as well. February 2007 update: It's now listed once again as Item 130079116878, under a new seller's name, but the same vehicle with no mention of all the damage, just notes it has a salvage title. Heck, folks, the front and rear valance trim isn't even the right one for the police package!
Remember too that a salvage title may not be able to be registered in all states, and you will be responsible for all problems after the sale. If you go to register the vehicle and it fails the DMV check, the cost of bringing it up to requirements, if even possible, will be yours. If the vehicle cannot be brought to requirements, you will then own a pricey lawn ornament, or might have to sell it to a salvage yard for parting out to try and recoup some of your money. So, be sure you can register that coveted vehicle before you buy it.
Also, when a vehicle has other than a standard title, the warranty will not usually apply, so your dealership won't repair the vehicle if anything goes wrong, even if it's under the standard new car warranty period. If the transmission, air conditioning, engine, differential, axle or suspension or even the entire electrical system fails, it's your problem. Some peoplesell flood cars on okay, even admitting the car had flood damage. Some will tell you it's okay because it was only fresh water. There's lots of contaminants in fresh water and it still gets into electrical parts, connectors, cables, upholstery, and in and between everything else. Mold and fungus can still form and may not even smell or begee apparent for awhile. Again, if the car has a flood title, good luck in getting anything fixed under the warranty. Changing all the fluids in a flood damaged car doesn't undo thedamage or eliminate the potential for more serious problems.
TIP: White powder on the floors and interior is often a sign that the airbags were deployed in a frontal collision. It's not all that easy to remove all the residue, and sometimes traces can be found in crevices, showing evidence of prior collisions. In the example above, it appears to be on the passenger side door sill; I am aware this vehicle had airbag deployment so it's pretty likely supposition this is residue from the deployment.
This does not mean that you can't get a great bargain on a government vehicle, nor should it keep you from buying one. What it should do is get that caution light burning brightly, so you don't end up with a real problem that you never bargained for. There is an old saying: "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is." Holds true for many things in life.
SomeFacts: If you're perusing the ads looking for a used police car, beware of the catch phrases and gee-one. Words like "mint" condition, "premium" package, and such should set off that big cautionlight inside your head. Ask yourself what "mint" condition could possibly be on a used police car! Mint conditionapplies to something that cannot be told from the absolute brand new item,and was originally used to describe coins that were in the exact condition as received from the US Mint. Nowhere will you find a used vehicle with significant mileage that is "mint". There is no premium packages for police cars.
(If you're considering buying one, please read my review on Used Police Cars,andPolice Interceptor Never in Police Service?here on okay. It will be worth your time to help avoid getting a bad deal and helping you be happy with your choice of vehicles.)
Beware of puffed up claims on condition, speed capabilities, gas mileage etc.The Crown Vic is not an economy vehicle and people who tell you they get 28 mpg are likely burning the wrong kind of gas in their pipe, if you get my drift! I've driven many of these, some on several thousand mile trips, some new and some broken in, and none ever got gas mileage anywhere near those figures. Gas mileage runs anywhere from about 15 city to 23 highway, depending ontune up, fuel and driving habits and conditions. Top speed for a newerCVPI is electronically limited to 129-130with the 3:27 gear set and 119-120 for those with the 3:55 gears. Some units may run a couple of miles faster or slower, depending, again, on conditions, but this is not a 150 MPH car in any case.Defeating the electronic speed limiter is dangerous, as the driveshaft harmonics have been shown toviolently damagethe drivetrain, and/or result in an accident. Plus, your warranty will disappear faster than your money in a casino if the limiter is disabled.The Crown Vic doesn't put out 300 HP by simply installing a cold air intake, and it's not all that easy to get 400 HP out of the engine without nitrous or a supercharger either. Outrageous claims of huge horsepower and speed capabilities are pretty clear signalssomeone is trying to pull something over on you.
Also, these vehicles do not go a million miles without problems. No vehicle goes a million miles with no problems. Even a big rig, designed to long haul with a diesel that will run non-stop coast-to-coast, will not run a million miles trouble free. Don't fall for the hype that people throw out there, when it's clear they don't know what they're talking about. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it usually is!
If you seea 2006, 2007 or 2007being sold with almost nomiles, it's almost certainly been factory transit damaged. One seller didn't disclose this in their auction, until I asked them why they didn't let prospective buyers know the vehicle had door and fender damage before delivery to the original dealer. They then did place that in an addendum to their listing. An oversight? Or simply thinking you wouldn't ever know? You make the call.Frankly, you would have absolutely no way of knowing if it weren't for guides like this one!
The Ford Dealers won't like me for telling you this: but when they sell a transit damaged car, they can and should obtain the OASIS report on the vehicle outlining any pre-delivery damage and/or repairs on thevehicle. Infact, the OASIS report will outline every factory-paid warranty repair on the vehicle since it was new, including recall gepletions and also outstanding recalls. Non-Ford family dealers do not have access to this report but the service department of every Ford andLincoln-Mercury Dealer does. If you're about to shell out big bucks for a nearly new car with almost zero miles and either being told it has no damage or not being told anything, ask for the OASIS report. It will have the VIN on it, the manufacture date, date the vehicle went into service, all repairs under warranty and, perhaps most important, where the vehicle was delivered and where the repairs were done. Thus a vehicle being sold in Georgia and represented as a local car might have been delivered to Minnesota and had body damage and auctioned off and purchased by the Georgia dealer. Nothing really wrong with that, and it does explain how many of those Michigan State Police blue cars end up all over the country. But, wouldn't it be nice to know that the car wasn't really from Georgia to begin with, and that there might be more little untruths you could have to deal with as the sale unfolds? Once again, honesty from the beginning is what makes the sale easy and pleasant and avoids the pitfalls of buying a surprise.
Read and be an informed buyer. Just like buying a parachute, getting the best you can is always a very smart idea!!
Typically, governmental agencies are self-insured for property damage, and have what is known as a self-insured retention, or SIR, for liability under a certain dollar amount. For bigger municipalities or entities, the SIR can be as great as 5 million dollars; for federal agencies perhaps higher. Thus, any damage to vehicles, or liability claims, will not be paid by insurance gepanies, provided they fall under the cap on the SIR amount. Most property damage only claims, such as vehicle damage, is never reported. In fact, although required by most insurance gepanies, in some cases,even liability claims that fall under the self-insured amounts are not properly reported to the gepany.
The way that it works is this: A vehicle is damaged in service. It perhaps is totaled. The cost of repairs exceeds the value of the vehicle so the city writes off the $28,000 value of the vehicle plus the $5,000 value of the equipment they cannot salvage. Property damage as a result of the accident is $10,000 to Mrs. O'Leary's fence. The city pays Mrs. O'Leary, and nobody has any idea this ever occurred except the city and Mrs. O'Leary. The total loss to the city is thus $43,000 in real dollars, but the city has a $1,000,000 SIR, so they have $957,000 to go before the insurance gepany would pick up the first cent. Although the insurance gepanylikely requires notification as part of it's policy language, there is a good likelihood they won't be notified. I guess the point is if there is no payment to be made, why bother with the paperwork. I do have to say it is more likely notification would be made if there was personal injury involved, such as Mrs. O'Leary standing between the vehicle and her fence! That's pretty difficult to overlook with the impending legal activity that surely follows. So, in any event, your future cruiser will never show up in an insurance database anywhere. And, if it is not issued a salvage title, you may never know how bad the damage was!
Thus, if you purchase a used vehicle that has been owned by a municipality, you really don't know what you have, unless you have it inspected first by a trusted mechanic. A police, fire, EMS or utility vehicle that has been in an accident can either be repaired and returned to service, removed from inventory and sold, or salvaged, all depending on the severity of damage. Since the damaged vehicle would not show up on a CarFax or other report, you would never know the vehicle had been in an accident, an if you did, what the extent of the damage really was.
You should also be aware of State Laws in the locality where you are going to purchase a vehicle,or where the vehicleis geing from. In Oregon, for example,a total loss equates to "a vehicle that has sustained damage that is not covered by insurance and the estimated cost to repair the vehicle is equal to at least 80% of the retail market value prior to the damage." So a car that was damaged to 75% would not be considered a total for all practical purposes.
My recent searches show vehicles being severely damaged and being sold on okay, albeit with a salvage title, being described as having had minor damage when propspective buyers question the sellers about the vehicles past. One 2006 vehicle, previously sold under Item number: 130029469348 shows a great deal of damage, and then later repaired and listed as Item number: 110057905952,yet is described as "It had previously fallen into a dirt ditch." and "This car had minor bodily damage." Any "minor" damage usuallydoes not result in airbag deployment,the fenders to move, the rear bumper valance to deform, etc. Then in an even later auction, Item number: 110061601528, the same car is again listed with no mention of damage until prospective buyers begin to question why it has a salvage title.The seller states again it had "minor damage." Also, a prospective buyer asks if there is any warranty from Ford and the seller indicates they don't know. Fact is the vehicle had the warranty cancelled as soon as the title was "branded" as salvage. You get the general idea. This is so close to fraud it's pathetic, but okay has no way to catch these sellers unless you do it for them!Again, it doesn't have to be a police car for this to happen, but police vehicles are in some pretty unusual collisions and you can end up getting a vehicle that has had a rough life, unless you choose wisely. As a followup, the vehicle was again listed as Item number: 110064642355 indicating a salvage title but with again, no mention of the previous damage. And, for some reason,the seller has now changed their okay name as well. February 2007 update: It's now listed once again as Item 130079116878, under a new seller's name, but the same vehicle with no mention of all the damage, just notes it has a salvage title. Heck, folks, the front and rear valance trim isn't even the right one for the police package!
Remember too that a salvage title may not be able to be registered in all states, and you will be responsible for all problems after the sale. If you go to register the vehicle and it fails the DMV check, the cost of bringing it up to requirements, if even possible, will be yours. If the vehicle cannot be brought to requirements, you will then own a pricey lawn ornament, or might have to sell it to a salvage yard for parting out to try and recoup some of your money. So, be sure you can register that coveted vehicle before you buy it.
Also, when a vehicle has other than a standard title, the warranty will not usually apply, so your dealership won't repair the vehicle if anything goes wrong, even if it's under the standard new car warranty period. If the transmission, air conditioning, engine, differential, axle or suspension or even the entire electrical system fails, it's your problem. Some peoplesell flood cars on okay, even admitting the car had flood damage. Some will tell you it's okay because it was only fresh water. There's lots of contaminants in fresh water and it still gets into electrical parts, connectors, cables, upholstery, and in and between everything else. Mold and fungus can still form and may not even smell or begee apparent for awhile. Again, if the car has a flood title, good luck in getting anything fixed under the warranty. Changing all the fluids in a flood damaged car doesn't undo thedamage or eliminate the potential for more serious problems.
TIP: White powder on the floors and interior is often a sign that the airbags were deployed in a frontal collision. It's not all that easy to remove all the residue, and sometimes traces can be found in crevices, showing evidence of prior collisions. In the example above, it appears to be on the passenger side door sill; I am aware this vehicle had airbag deployment so it's pretty likely supposition this is residue from the deployment.
This does not mean that you can't get a great bargain on a government vehicle, nor should it keep you from buying one. What it should do is get that caution light burning brightly, so you don't end up with a real problem that you never bargained for. There is an old saying: "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is." Holds true for many things in life.
SomeFacts: If you're perusing the ads looking for a used police car, beware of the catch phrases and gee-one. Words like "mint" condition, "premium" package, and such should set off that big cautionlight inside your head. Ask yourself what "mint" condition could possibly be on a used police car! Mint conditionapplies to something that cannot be told from the absolute brand new item,and was originally used to describe coins that were in the exact condition as received from the US Mint. Nowhere will you find a used vehicle with significant mileage that is "mint". There is no premium packages for police cars.
(If you're considering buying one, please read my review on Used Police Cars,andPolice Interceptor Never in Police Service?here on okay. It will be worth your time to help avoid getting a bad deal and helping you be happy with your choice of vehicles.)
Beware of puffed up claims on condition, speed capabilities, gas mileage etc.The Crown Vic is not an economy vehicle and people who tell you they get 28 mpg are likely burning the wrong kind of gas in their pipe, if you get my drift! I've driven many of these, some on several thousand mile trips, some new and some broken in, and none ever got gas mileage anywhere near those figures. Gas mileage runs anywhere from about 15 city to 23 highway, depending ontune up, fuel and driving habits and conditions. Top speed for a newerCVPI is electronically limited to 129-130with the 3:27 gear set and 119-120 for those with the 3:55 gears. Some units may run a couple of miles faster or slower, depending, again, on conditions, but this is not a 150 MPH car in any case.Defeating the electronic speed limiter is dangerous, as the driveshaft harmonics have been shown toviolently damagethe drivetrain, and/or result in an accident. Plus, your warranty will disappear faster than your money in a casino if the limiter is disabled.The Crown Vic doesn't put out 300 HP by simply installing a cold air intake, and it's not all that easy to get 400 HP out of the engine without nitrous or a supercharger either. Outrageous claims of huge horsepower and speed capabilities are pretty clear signalssomeone is trying to pull something over on you.
Also, these vehicles do not go a million miles without problems. No vehicle goes a million miles with no problems. Even a big rig, designed to long haul with a diesel that will run non-stop coast-to-coast, will not run a million miles trouble free. Don't fall for the hype that people throw out there, when it's clear they don't know what they're talking about. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it usually is!
If you seea 2006, 2007 or 2007being sold with almost nomiles, it's almost certainly been factory transit damaged. One seller didn't disclose this in their auction, until I asked them why they didn't let prospective buyers know the vehicle had door and fender damage before delivery to the original dealer. They then did place that in an addendum to their listing. An oversight? Or simply thinking you wouldn't ever know? You make the call.Frankly, you would have absolutely no way of knowing if it weren't for guides like this one!
The Ford Dealers won't like me for telling you this: but when they sell a transit damaged car, they can and should obtain the OASIS report on the vehicle outlining any pre-delivery damage and/or repairs on thevehicle. Infact, the OASIS report will outline every factory-paid warranty repair on the vehicle since it was new, including recall gepletions and also outstanding recalls. Non-Ford family dealers do not have access to this report but the service department of every Ford andLincoln-Mercury Dealer does. If you're about to shell out big bucks for a nearly new car with almost zero miles and either being told it has no damage or not being told anything, ask for the OASIS report. It will have the VIN on it, the manufacture date, date the vehicle went into service, all repairs under warranty and, perhaps most important, where the vehicle was delivered and where the repairs were done. Thus a vehicle being sold in Georgia and represented as a local car might have been delivered to Minnesota and had body damage and auctioned off and purchased by the Georgia dealer. Nothing really wrong with that, and it does explain how many of those Michigan State Police blue cars end up all over the country. But, wouldn't it be nice to know that the car wasn't really from Georgia to begin with, and that there might be more little untruths you could have to deal with as the sale unfolds? Once again, honesty from the beginning is what makes the sale easy and pleasant and avoids the pitfalls of buying a surprise.
Read and be an informed buyer. Just like buying a parachute, getting the best you can is always a very smart idea!!
Shopping for makeup...What is a GWP?
When shopping for makeup on okay it is possible to take advantage of the availability of GWP (gift with purchase) lipstick, blush, etc. okay is the perfect place to buy GWP makeup at a fraction of the retail price of the full size item. Prestige brands such as Langee, Estee Lauder and Clinique package their products for promotional purposes to give their customers a chance to try a new product or color before purchasing the full size item. Once the promotion period ends these GWP cosmetics are purchased by wholesale resellers in large quantities.
Size, labels and packaging are the main differences between GWP and full size items.
1) These items are marked not for individual sale, tester or promo on the label.
2) GWPs are usually packaged in plastic cases, gepacts and tubes instead of the fancy signature tubes and gepacts that full size items gee in.
3) They are usually a smaller amount (net weight) than the full size item. They are trial size. Lipsticks are often full size GWP. This means it is the same net weight as a full size lipstick.
4) They are not boxed.
GWPs are the same exceptional quality as the full size item and are often current popular colors. They are not necessarily discontinued colors. Check brand websites if you want to know if they are current or discontinued colors. GWPs are a great way to try prestige brand makeup without a huge investment.
Size, labels and packaging are the main differences between GWP and full size items.
1) These items are marked not for individual sale, tester or promo on the label.
2) GWPs are usually packaged in plastic cases, gepacts and tubes instead of the fancy signature tubes and gepacts that full size items gee in.
3) They are usually a smaller amount (net weight) than the full size item. They are trial size. Lipsticks are often full size GWP. This means it is the same net weight as a full size lipstick.
4) They are not boxed.
GWPs are the same exceptional quality as the full size item and are often current popular colors. They are not necessarily discontinued colors. Check brand websites if you want to know if they are current or discontinued colors. GWPs are a great way to try prestige brand makeup without a huge investment.
CHALCEDONY, JASPER, AGATE
Chalcedony (kal SED' nee) is any form of microcrystalline quartz , where the crystals are too small to be seen without high magnification. However, in the rock world, only the translucent or transparent, single color types are sold as "chalcedony". (The exception would be Carnelian, a blood red variety.) Other colors are white, blue, purple, pink, yellow, orange or red. The various types differ in color due to metallic impurities, such as iron, nickel, copper, and titanium present during crystallization.
Chalcedony forms in rounded crusts, rinds or stalactites in volcanic and sedimentary rocks. The name probably gees from Chalcedon or Calchedon, an ancient port city on the Sea of Marmara in modern-day Turkey. They usually have a waxy luster and a hardness of 7. Chalcedonies are tough gems, good for all jewelry applications and require no special care in wearing or cleaning.
Some varieties of Chalcedony and their localities are:
Chrysoprase gets its green color from nickel. Most chrysoprase sold today gees from Australia.
Chrysocolla - Marketed as "Gem Silica" this relatively rare, blue to blue-green, opaque to near transparent material is the most expensive type of chalcedony. Found almost exclusively in Arizona its color is due to copper.
Blue Chalcedony -The various blues are generally named by their localities. The colors vary greatly from gray to lavender. They also vary in the amount of translucency.
Bustamite - An extremely rare pink variety from South Africa. It is found in the manganese mines and the color can vary from pale pink, to dusty rose, to a raspberry red.
JASPER AND AGATES
The rest of the stones in the chalcedony family are sold under individual variety names, or as jasper or agate. While the definitions overlap, Jasper usually refers to an opaque stone, with a solid color or an irregular display of colors caused by various mineral impurities. The named is derived from the Greek word that means spotted stone. Agate is defined by its translucency (ability to see light through it), and by its clearly defined pattern or banding of multiple colors. The name is derived from the Sicilian river Achates.
Jaspers and Agates are found all over the world, with certain colors or patterns unique to particular localities. All types take an excellent polish, are trouble free to care for, and hardy enough for all jewelry uses. Most names of jaspers and agates gee from their colors or their appearance, or from where they are found.
Some Jaspers named after their location:
Biggs (Oregon), Bruneau (Idaho), Owyhee (Oregon/Idaho), Morrisonite (Oregon), Deschutes (Oregon), Succor Creek Oregon/Idaho),Mookaite (Australia), Willow Creek (Idaho)
Willow Creek Succor Creek
Laguna, Coyamito, and Luna all found in Mexico,
Coyamito Brazilian Grave Yard Plume
Brazilian (the most massive deposits of agate in the world are found in southern Brazil), Botswana (Africa).
Some Jaspers named after their color or appearance:
Bloodstone from India is a dark green with red spots, Orbicular has circle patterns or eyes, Poppy Jasper from California is red with yellow or white spots, Leopardskin is yellow and black from Mexico, Spiderman from Idaho is black with red webbing, Zebra is black and white and from South Africa.
White Plume Turritella is geposed mostly of turritella shells
Blue Lace lavender with lacey white pattern from South Africa
Plume Agate isnamed for the plume like inclusions, Moss Agatenamed for its mossy inclusions, Dendritic Agatehas tree or fern like inclusions, Crazy Lace named for itswild lacey pattern.
Other Members of the Chalcedony Family:
Flint is opaque, dull gray or white. It rarely makes an appearance as gem, but is useful material for arrowheads, other utilitarian purposes. A recent find in Poland has great pattern and gray to brown color that makes nice cabs and decorative objects, such as spheres.
Polish Flint
Petrified Wood and Dinosaur Bone are chalcedony pseudomorphs, the atom-by-atom replacement of one mineral (wood) for another (chalcedony) without changing the original mineral's external appearance. In the Petrified Forest National Monument of Arizona, there are remains of an entire ancient forest that was transformed into chalcedony.
Please visit my store to see lots of rocks and minerals!
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Chalcedony forms in rounded crusts, rinds or stalactites in volcanic and sedimentary rocks. The name probably gees from Chalcedon or Calchedon, an ancient port city on the Sea of Marmara in modern-day Turkey. They usually have a waxy luster and a hardness of 7. Chalcedonies are tough gems, good for all jewelry applications and require no special care in wearing or cleaning.
Some varieties of Chalcedony and their localities are:
Chrysoprase gets its green color from nickel. Most chrysoprase sold today gees from Australia.
Chrysocolla - Marketed as "Gem Silica" this relatively rare, blue to blue-green, opaque to near transparent material is the most expensive type of chalcedony. Found almost exclusively in Arizona its color is due to copper.
Blue Chalcedony -The various blues are generally named by their localities. The colors vary greatly from gray to lavender. They also vary in the amount of translucency.
Bustamite - An extremely rare pink variety from South Africa. It is found in the manganese mines and the color can vary from pale pink, to dusty rose, to a raspberry red.
JASPER AND AGATES
The rest of the stones in the chalcedony family are sold under individual variety names, or as jasper or agate. While the definitions overlap, Jasper usually refers to an opaque stone, with a solid color or an irregular display of colors caused by various mineral impurities. The named is derived from the Greek word that means spotted stone. Agate is defined by its translucency (ability to see light through it), and by its clearly defined pattern or banding of multiple colors. The name is derived from the Sicilian river Achates.
Jaspers and Agates are found all over the world, with certain colors or patterns unique to particular localities. All types take an excellent polish, are trouble free to care for, and hardy enough for all jewelry uses. Most names of jaspers and agates gee from their colors or their appearance, or from where they are found.
Some Jaspers named after their location:
Biggs (Oregon), Bruneau (Idaho), Owyhee (Oregon/Idaho), Morrisonite (Oregon), Deschutes (Oregon), Succor Creek Oregon/Idaho),Mookaite (Australia), Willow Creek (Idaho)
Willow Creek Succor Creek
Laguna, Coyamito, and Luna all found in Mexico,
Coyamito Brazilian Grave Yard Plume
Brazilian (the most massive deposits of agate in the world are found in southern Brazil), Botswana (Africa).
Some Jaspers named after their color or appearance:
Bloodstone from India is a dark green with red spots, Orbicular has circle patterns or eyes, Poppy Jasper from California is red with yellow or white spots, Leopardskin is yellow and black from Mexico, Spiderman from Idaho is black with red webbing, Zebra is black and white and from South Africa.
White Plume Turritella is geposed mostly of turritella shells
Blue Lace lavender with lacey white pattern from South Africa
Plume Agate isnamed for the plume like inclusions, Moss Agatenamed for its mossy inclusions, Dendritic Agatehas tree or fern like inclusions, Crazy Lace named for itswild lacey pattern.
Other Members of the Chalcedony Family:
Flint is opaque, dull gray or white. It rarely makes an appearance as gem, but is useful material for arrowheads, other utilitarian purposes. A recent find in Poland has great pattern and gray to brown color that makes nice cabs and decorative objects, such as spheres.
Polish Flint
Petrified Wood and Dinosaur Bone are chalcedony pseudomorphs, the atom-by-atom replacement of one mineral (wood) for another (chalcedony) without changing the original mineral's external appearance. In the Petrified Forest National Monument of Arizona, there are remains of an entire ancient forest that was transformed into chalcedony.
Please visit my store to see lots of rocks and minerals!
If you have found this guide helpful-Please vote yes below!
Identifying Longaberger Basket Stain
Longaberger has changed their stain colors over the years. Here is a timeline of what was available.
1979-1982 - Dark Stain (looked very dark)
1983-1985 - Dark Stain (looked a little lighter than the earlier dark stain)
1986-2002 - Classic Stain
1994-2001 - Natural(No Stain)
2002-2003 - Whitewash
2003-Present - Warm Brown Stain
2005 - Sunwash
Summer 2006- Soft Pink, Medium Green, Soft White, Bold Blue and Bold Red
Fall 2006 - Rich Brown, Deep Brown, American Craft Originals, Bold Green, Heartwood
Spring 2007 - Leaf Green, SunwashedYellow, Bold Red, Bold Blue
Fall 2007 - Merlot, Olive
Spring 2008 - Sunset Pink, Sky Blue and Leaf Green
1979-1982 - Dark Stain (looked very dark)
1983-1985 - Dark Stain (looked a little lighter than the earlier dark stain)
1986-2002 - Classic Stain
1994-2001 - Natural(No Stain)
2002-2003 - Whitewash
2003-Present - Warm Brown Stain
2005 - Sunwash
Summer 2006- Soft Pink, Medium Green, Soft White, Bold Blue and Bold Red
Fall 2006 - Rich Brown, Deep Brown, American Craft Originals, Bold Green, Heartwood
Spring 2007 - Leaf Green, SunwashedYellow, Bold Red, Bold Blue
Fall 2007 - Merlot, Olive
Spring 2008 - Sunset Pink, Sky Blue and Leaf Green
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